Wednesday, April 29, 2009

¡Parranda en Barrancabermeja!

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BARRANCABERMEJA – A name so long they shorten it to “B/Bermeja” on the license plates, separate it into two words – Barranca Bermeja – or simply just say, “Barranca.”

My experience in Barranca was by far the best experience I’ve had in Colombia since I visited this beautiful country for the first time in Medellín two years ago. Barranca is a city full of life, happiness, warmth and great pride. With its hot weather and high humidity comes the warmest and most friendly people you’ll ever meet in Colombia. They’ll greet you like an old friend or a long-lost relative, and not only welcome you with open arms but also literally drag you into their homes to offer you food and a refreshment to cool off.

The story of Barranca is one that several cities in Colombia share. Barranca is the oil capital of Colombia and is not only the backbone of the city’s economy but also its pride and joy. For years, guerrilla groups such as the FARC and the paramilitaries strived to seize control of the city, lusting for a piece of the oil wealth.

Today, you never would’ve known such a story existed in this wonderful place. The face has completely changed from one of desperate struggle to one of triumph, peace and hope. The violence is all past and with its rebirth is more than ready to show itself to the world.

Oliver Diglesias, our cameraman Juan and I traveled to Barrancabermeja to cover the festivities for the city’s 87th anniversary. Barranca was hardly inhabited until the town struck oil. Now it's a large city with over 200,000 people.

We arrived there on Friday at around 12:30 p.m. I was wowed as to how green the landscape was, looking from our tiny Avianca Fokker 50 aircraft. Even more, I couldn’t believe the heat when we got off! Barranca is the hottest region in Colombia, with temperatures ranging from 90° to over 100° F (32°to 40° C) with high humidity and almost no wind to cool you off.

I was sweating every minute of the day and would have to take at least two or three showers but I loved it. Coming from Connecticut in the U.S., where I froze my butt off during the winter, there’s no such thing for me as too much heat

The first place we went to was the oil museum, the only one in Latin America and the second-most important oil museum in the world. I did my first news show there and was educated as to how oil was drilled from the ground. The crew and I were with a group of students who kept wanting to take pictures with me.

After settling into our hotel we took a trip to the Magdalena River that evening and ate at a restaurant overlooking the water. It was an absolutely breathtaking view with the sunset reflecting the most beautiful colors on the river. I tried fried catfish for the first time (called “bagre” in Spanish), caught fresh from the Magdalena River and I couldn’t believe how delicious it was. I don’t like the taste of fish, but Colombia has managed to surprise me once again.

We then took a boat tour of the Magdalena River, which became my second news show. We sailed past the EcoPetrol oil refinery, and took a peek at the department of Antioquia. After that I did my closing in front of fish vendors.

That night we met Mayor Carlos Alberto Contreras, who greatly reflected the warmth and hospitality of Barranca’s people. Carlos was proud and passionate about his city and I couldn’t help but notice how his eyes glistened as he talked about it with a smile. He put his heart and soul into making sure all of us were having a great time and enjoying the city, and we sure did. I honestly kept forgetting I was here in this city to work.

The night however was still young and we made our way to a vallenato concert. Luifer Cuello, singer of hits such as A Chillar a Otra Parte was the first major act, and I made my next news show based around it. At one point I went onstage to do a presentation and Luifer himself walked up to me while singing. Surprised, I then danced vallenato next to him in front of the screaming hundreds of people in the crowd. It wasn’t the best performance on my part but I was told, however, I dance better than any gringo they’ve seen dance it before.

With the nonstop events going on for the city’s anniversary, we were lucky to get four hours of sleep per night; but it was all well worth it. I got to enjoy every minute of Barrancabermeja to the absolute fullest. We were doing something interesting every minute and our four days there felt more like two weeks.

The next day I was given the pleasure to meet Señorita Santander Maria Alejandra Sampayo. Alejandra stuck with us for the rest of the trip, so I got the chance to get to know her very well. Not only is she absolutely stunning physically but she is also very intelligent and – most importantly – very humble. Every man she walked by gawked, whistled and asked for a picture with her, but it never got to her head at all. She talked to everybody at her level as if she didn’t hold a beauty queen title at all, and I admire her greatly for that. She’s a very rare and very special person.

The rest of the trip continued to be pure fun. I tried waterskiing for the first time with little success. Whenever I tried to stand up I would fall flat on my face, having water shoot up my nose. Later on, we went to a neighborhood where the mayor spoke at a little street festival. The mayor asked me to speak in front of the people to show them a foreigner’s perspective of the city. I was then asked by several old ladies in traditional dress to dance with them in the middle of the street. Never in my life have I received so much attention!

That night we went on a chiva, a traditional Colombian party bus and had an awesome time. We blasted music, danced and waved to all the people on the street, who would then wave back. The chiva took us to a soccer game where we the former Colombian national team played a team compiled of all the television stars of Colombia. I also got a chance to meet Colombian soccer legend Carlos “El Pibe” Valderrama.

After the game we ate dinner at a buffalo burger restaurant, which I highly enjoyed being the cheeseburger-loving gringo that I am. I then reflected on the crazy things I had gone through in order to achieve my dream, feeling so happy God was so kind to grant me such a wonderful life. I felt so content at that moment that I began to feel my chest tingle.

By our last full day in Barranca I had already completed five news shows. The only ones left where the ones Oliver had to finish his stories. We went to a neighborhood where they were making a giant cocada – a traditional dessert – for the city’s anniversary.

Oliver made a piece on the cocada for his “Dining with Diglesias” segment, which will appear on our Avianca newscast. Guillermo aka “Gilligan” – one of the other RCN journalists with us – conducted some interviews for Estilo RCN. He made the whole group of cooks get together and say, “¡Esta cocada es Estilo RCN!” Afterwards, the crew and I went to the Children’s Rights parade in the downtown area, where Oliver completed his work doing a weekend edition newscast.

Oliver, Miss Santander, along with some of our other new Barranca friends and I rewarded our hard work by going to the city’s waterpark to cool off and indulge in it as much as we could. There were pools, giant waterslides and tejo, a popular Colombian game where you have to try to throw tiny weight onto an exploding white triangle in the middle of a clay square.

It was sad leaving Barranca the next day but I remember feeling so happy I was able to experience such a wonderful place. It’s the great cities like Barranca that prove Colombia is a little piece of heaven on Earth. Barranca will always have a special place in my heart and I look forward to the day I have the opportunity to return to such a great city. Mr. Mayor, you have found a Barranqueño de corazón. Thank you so much Barrancabermeja for giving me some of the best memories of my life! You have not only one of the best cities in Colombia but one of the best in the world.

6 comments:

Unknown said...

Hi Gary!

I'm Deicy, an optimist girl from Chocó-Colombia (I think you have heared about my state. Well... maybe not). Anyway, i loved the way you wrote that Chronic because i could realize how much you enjoy that experience in Barrancabermeja. that's the most exciting writing ever read about that particular region. Thank you for coming to Colombia regardless of the bad reputation we, as colombian, have. Thnx!!!

All in all, I'd like you to come here some day (not to visit me; although, i think that's an absolutely great idea 'cause i love you). Indeed I'd like you to give yourself the chance to get lost in our beautiful landscape and fall in love with our heritage.

kisses, babe!

Mwwwwwwwaaaa
Dey.

Sebastian Aristizabal said...

great chronic!!!!
It´s great to see how you describe our country.....

Diego González said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Diego González said...

Hi Gary, I'm Diego. I'm from Barrancabermeja and I'm so happy you were there! That's really fine. My city has another face! Thank you so much!

Anonymous said...

I'm barranqueña and I'm so glad to read such wonderful comments from my city. I came to this blog because I need to write about my city in an English Course and this is the best inspiration I've found till now. Thanks a buch.

Anonymous said...

Hi Gary
I am Barranqueña and I am so happy to see you enjoyed your trip in Barrancabermeja. I hope you can come back soon.